La Befana
When you enter the Fior d’Italia this Christmas you will see an imposing but jolly figure to greet you — the familiar Santa Claus, St. Nicholas or Father Christmas. But you know, dear customers, St. Nick is not any Italian elf.
Oh no. In Italy at this time of the year they celebrate the figure of La Befana, an old hag with a broom. She’s the one who, on January 6, gives you either treats or a lump of coal depending on whether you have been naughty or nice. The term La Befana is a corruption of the word epifania, the Epiphany, the January 6 feast when we celebrate the day the Magi discovered the baby Jesus.
The respect given to La Befana is based on the legend that held that the three kings knocked on her door a few days before Christ’s birth. They asked her for directions to the Christ child but she did not know the way. Hospitably, she put them up for the night. They discovered what an excellent housekeeper she was and that she was reputed to have the most pleasant home in the village. That is probably why she is always depicted with a broom.
he next morning the three traveling astrologers invited her to join them on their search. She declined, saying she was busy with her household chores. Later she regretted this decision and she tried to follow the Magi. But she was unsuccessful in catching up with them or tracking their route.
To this day, La Befana is still searching for the Christ child. So she gives all good children toys and candy in the event he or she may be the real Jesus. Traditionally Italian children also receive a lump of coal — actually caramel covered rock candy — in their stockings on the theory that at least once in the past year they have been naughty.
Well, we don’t have a figure of La Befana at the Fior d’Italia. Neither do we give our esteemed guests lumps of coal, rock candy or not. But we will serve you the finest Northern Italian cuisine in San Francisco this Christmas season as we do all year long.
