The Fabulous Fior Weblog

BY AMALIA McGIBBON

reprinted with permission from SF Downtown Magazine.

May 2006

Amalia McGibbon is a freelance writer based in San Francisco. Reprinted with permission from San Francisco Downtown Magazine

Fior d’Italia is worth a visit for its long-standing history alone, but the Italian restaurant’s recent facelift should seal the deal. “The Fior,” as it’s affectionately called by devotees, has the distinct honor of being the oldest Italian restaurant in the country (yes, country). Fior d’Italia’s record staying power should lead you to rightly believe that the original owners, Angelo Del Monte and “Papa” Marianetti, chanced upon the recipe for a successful restaurant. Lucky for us, the subsequent owners, of which there have only been three sets, have stayed true to the most important ingredients: in their words, “traditional Italian cuisine and old world service.”

That’s not to say “The Fior” hasn’t come a long way since its opening on May 1, 1886. The restaurant’s origins were a tad, how should I say, salacious: when it first opened in the heart of San Francisco’s North Beach, Fior d’Italia’s most loyal clientele were the keepers and patrons of the upstairs brothel. San Francisco has changed a lot over the past century, and the most dramatic milestones are reflected in Fior d’Italia’s own history. Case in point is the 1906 earthquake, which left both the city and restaurant devastated. As the former picked itself up out of the wreckage, so did the latter, feeding the city’s displaced inhabitants from a tent. After a few more locations, “The Fior” finally settled into its most memorable venue at 601 Union Street on Washington Square Park where it remained for 50 years. There, the modest restaurant grew substantially, expanding its seating capacity to 750 persons and its output to 1500 meals a day.

Last month, we commended San Franciscans for their indomitable spirit in the face of misfortune; the same should be said for the ever-tenacious Fior d’Italia. When an early morning fire gutted the landmark in February 2005, the current owners did not waste time bemoaning their losses. They refused to do anything but get back on the horse. Of course, first they had to find a horse to get back on. Enter the San Remo Hotel (2237 Mason, near Bay Street), which had been advertising restaurant space to rent since 2000. The extensively remodeled Fior d’Italia, which reopened in November, is a testament to that well-worn adage about silver linings, as the new location is an improvement upon the last. Salmon-colored walls, serious-looking leather chairs, and a white press-tin roof all contribute to a romantic atmosphere. Chandelier lamps give the main dining room a warm, flattering glow and well-spaced, linen-clad tables contribute to an aura of relaxed sophistication.The Fior now has all the richness of an aged cultural institution with the shine of a brand new look.

In spite of all these periodic transformations, the restaurant’s menu has stayed impressively constant. Which is perhaps why the owners made the brave decision to serve the very first 1886 menu on the day of its 2005 reopening, complete with old prices. Authentic Italian cuisine is the focus, and Chef Gianni Audieri has little interest in all the culinary fads swirling around him. And with a menu of over 90 tried-and-true Italian items, there’s really no room for an added pan-Asian, French-inspired, tapas flare. The inspiration is more specifically Northern Italian, which means Fior di Italia’s menu puts an emphasis on egg pasta, cream, butter, and rice, to distinguish itself from Southern favorites like olive oil and dried pasta.

I short-circuited at the first sight of Fior’s vast menu and quickly decided to shift the burden of choice onto the very trustworthy shoulders of Chef Audieri and his Pranzo Tasting Menu. The dinner package, a very reasonable $55, was advertised as including an appetizer, a salad, a pasta course, an entrée, and a dessert. This demure-sounding “five-course” dinner really amounts to much more than that. The feast began with four starters: a thin slice of Prosciutto ham draped over a juicy wedge of cantaloupe for a classic salty/sweet combo; a mini Insalata Caprese; a mound of delicate Dungeness crab coated in a light sherry-infused aioli; and in the center, a single, succulent prawn grilled in a tomato, white wine and garlic glaze. Altogether, a well-rounded sampling of Fior d’Italia’s antipasti.

Next in line was the salad, a course which rarely gets the attention and respect (and I mean from both Chef and diner) that it deserves. Such was not the case at Fior d’Italia, which is famous for its Caesar salads ($8.50 a la carte) - a straightforward version with copious mounds of crisp lettuce and creamy, tangy dressing. Knowing the abundant meal that lay ahead, we beseeched the waiter to take our unfinished dishes far away, from our unstoppable forks.

We then moved on to the pastas. There was silky gnocchi with a sweet marinara sauce; tortellini stuffed with chicken and turkey in a light Alfredo sauce; and a penne dressed in classic pesto. All three options were classic, straightforward fare. The restaurant makes most of the pastas and all of the sauces in-house. Then it was entrée time, and once again we were spoiled with an indulgent selection. First, there was a beautiful piece of poached salmon drizzled with a faint dill sauce that seemed to melt in my mouth. Next was the Saltimbocca alla Romana, a tender veal cutlet topped with sage and prosciutto. Last was the Filetto al Vino Rosso, an irresistible beef filet paired with a red wine sauce that was delectable from the first bite through the last. I would recommend ordering from the House Wines list – a glass of Fior d’Italia Merlot ($7) will unite all these flavors nicely.

For dessert, my guest and I shared the devilishly rich Chocolate Fudge Cake and the Tiramisu, which won me over with its own subtly flavored homemade mascarpone. My entire dinner at Fior d’Italia was flawless; the kitchen and veteran staff clearly know what they’re doing and run the place like one big, happy, highly functioning, Italian family. After all, practice makes perfect and Fior’s been practicing longer than anyone..

Posted by Francine in Current Postings.